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Guacamole

Sopa Seco De Fideos
(Dry Noodle Soup)

Queso and Refried Bean Quesadilla
(Mexican Pizza)

Camarones con Limon
(Lime Shrimp)

Skirt Steak Fajitas
(with soy sauce, Chinese-style)

Flan
(Traditional style, the way Maria likes it)

Cooking with April Woo

Mexican Fiesta Birthday Dinner for April Woo

- by Leslie Glass

 

Coordinating April's 31st birthday dinner was a feat of international diplomacy. April's father Ja Fa Woo wanted to cook the dinner himself and have a big Chinese blowout – never mind the expense – at the very expensive Chinese restaurant where he was a Number One chef in Midtown on the East Side.

However, his wife, Sai Yuan Woo, was ashamed to have an only child who was not yet married at thirty-one. In addition, although the expense was nothing to them (really), they didn't exactly want to advertise April's Spanish ghost boyfriend to the Woo's two hundred closest friends and relatives at one of the most expensive restaurants in town. On this, both Woos were in total agreement.

Failing his first choice at his own restaurant, Ja Fa and Sai debated having the party in Chinatown where they could take over a floor at Sweet and Tart on Mott Street. Or a floor at the Golden Unicorn on East Broadway. And never mind the expense there, either... it would be much cheaper. But there was still the problem of the boyfriend amidst the cousins and the sister cousins and the aunties and all the important people in the several Chinese societies that the Woos had known all the thirty years since April had come into the world with her head squashed like a gourd during her great resistance coming into this world. From the very first, April been a big problem to her parents, most especially her mother. The party was abandoned when an alternative presented itself.

Mike's mother, Maria Sanchez, had no qualms about advertising April to her friends – even though April was too skinny and not a Catholic – so she arranged for the meal to be cooked and served at the restaurant where Mike's father had been chef and part owner until his death five years ago. The Woos attended. The following was the simple "homestyle" meal that was served.

 

Guacamole 

  • 3 ripe avocados

  • 1 medium ripe tomato, finely chopped

  • 2 Tbls fresh, finely chopped cilantro (or 1 tsp dried)

  • 1 fresh jalapeno chopped (or canned chopped jalapeno to taste)

  • 1 sweet red onion chopped fine

  • Juice of one lemon

  • 1 tsp. salt or to taste

As with fine Chinese cooking, Mexican cooking by Marco and Maria Sanchez is "by feel, by texture and by taste." In Mexican homes, this flavorful guacamole is made with a volcanic rock mortar and pestle called a molcajete y tejolote. The ingredients are finely chopped, then ground together into a rough paste with the salt and lemon in the molcajete. The avocados are cut in half, scooped out and added last.

Since most households north of the border don't have volcanic mortars, you can use a food processor, starting with the onions and tomatoes and being very careful to pulse only a few times. Do not overprocess the tomato and onion. It will get watery and not blend well. Mash the ripe avocados with the back of a spoon and pulse only once to incorporate. This version of guacamole is more like a thick salad than a puree. It should be lumpy and crunchy. Serve with chips or warm corn tortillas or as a side dish or garnish.

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Sopa Seco De Fideos (Noodle soup) 

  • 1 package fideos or 3 oz. angel hair past

  • 1 red pepper, chopped

  • 1 small onion, chopped

  • 1 large can beef broth

  • salt and pepper to taste

  • fresh cilantro as a garnish

  • 1 Tbl. olive oil

Break the spaghetti into two inch lengths, or roll the fideos with a rolling pin. Sauté the onion and red pepper in olive oil for four minutes, then add fideos and sauté another two minutes. Add beef broth and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until the pasta is al dente, as we say in Italian. 

This "dry" soup is often served as a side dish, an accompaniment to a meat or fish dish with the broth all but absorbed by the pasta. Maria likes to serve her dry soups with lots of broth as real soup, so she uses more broth and sometimes adds a cup of corn or some chunks of avocado for elegance. 

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Queso and Refried Bean Quesadilla (Mexican Pizza)

  • 4 flour tortillas

  • 1 can refried beans

  • 8 oz. California Jack with or without jalapenos, or a string cheese shredded

  • 1 Tbl. butter

  • 1/4 cup pitted black olives sliced (optional)

  • 2 Tbls finely chopped onions (optional)

Grease two cookie sheets just a little. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sauté refried beans in the butter in a frying pan until hot and slightly crusty on the bottom. To assemble, sprinkle tortillas with water. Put two tortillas on greased cookie sheets. Spread refried beans on the tortillas, sprinkle with the cheese (and black olives and onion if desired), put second tortilla on top of the mixture and press to make a sandwich. Bake in the oven for ten to fifteen minutes until cheese is melted and quesadillas are crispy. They can also be fried in a frying pan, but Maria uses the low fat method. Cut in wedges like a pizza.

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Camarones con Limon (Lime Shrimp)

  • 1 lb. shrimp peeled and deveined

  • Sea salt and pepper to taste

  • 1/3 cup lime juice

  • 1 sweet onion sliced

  • 2 medium tomatoes broiled

  • 1 crushed, then chopped, garlic clove

  • 4 Tbls olive oil

  • 1/4 tsp. oregano

  • 1 sweet red pepper, sliced

  • 1 fresh hot pepper (optional)

  • 1/4 cup white wine

Marinate shrimps in sea salt, pepper, and lime juice for 30 minutes. At the same time, broil the tomatoes until soft in a toaster oven or under the broiler for a grilled taste. In a large frying pan, sauté the onion, garlic, and peppers in the olive oil for five or six minutes. Chop the tomatoes in a blender. Add the shrimps to the frying pan, and sauté only for a few seconds to brown, then add the tomatoes, oregano, marinating juices and wine and
cook only long enough to marry tastes. The shrimp will be dry if they're overcooked.

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Skirt Steak Fajitas (with soy sauce, the Chinese way)

  • 1 lb. skirt steak

  • juice of two limes

  • 1/4 cup soy sauce

  • 2 Tbls olive oil

  • 1 minced garlic

  • 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. ground cumin

  • pepper to taste

Accompaniments:

  • 1 cup sour cream

  • 1 cup chopped tomato

  • 1 cup sliced scallion

  • 1 cup guacamole (recipe above)

  • 1/4 cup sliced jalapeno

  • flour tortillas, warmed

  • Salsa

Cross slice the steak into four sections, then slice steak into strips one inch thick. Marinate the strips in the lime juice, olive oil, soy sauce, garlic, cumin and pepper to taste for several hours or overnight. The steak strips are then cooked quickly on a very hot griddle or non stick fry pan. The steak should be pink and succulent.

Mound on a platter and serve with warmed tortillas and other accompaniments. Fajitas are eaten with the sliced steak, onion, avocado, scallions, sour cream and tomato folded inside. Add salsa for extra heat.

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Flan (Traditional style, the way Maria likes it) 

  • 3/4 cup sugar

  • 1 quart milk

  • pinch salt

  • 1/2 cup sugar

  • vanilla bean or cinnamon stick (or tsp. vanilla extract)

  • lime rind

  • 4 eggs (or egg substitute)

  • 5 egg yolks

(This is traditional but not absolutely necessary. You can reduce to two or three egg yolks if cholesterol is a concern. The custard will not be as thick, but still delicious nonetheless.)

A traditional flan is made in a mold, then removed and served on a cake plate with lots of syrup on top. The restaurant way is to bake each serving in individual white porcelain ovenproof cups. The cooking method is the same for both.

Melt 3/4 cup sugar in a saucepan, tipping the pan to distribute heat. Let the sugar bubble and become dark and caramelize. Before it hardens, quickly pour into one oven-safe mold or six to eight small ones, and distribute the caramelized sugar evenly to cover the whole bottom of the cups.

In a saucepan, heat milk, salt, remaining sugar, vanilla bean or cinnamon stick, and lime rind. Bring the milk to a gentle simmer, being careful not to burn the bottom of the pan or let it boil over. Simmer for a few minutes until reduced by 3/4 cup. Cool to room temperature and discard rind and vanilla bean. Beat the eggs and egg yolks, and add to cooled milk. If the milk wasn't boiled with a vanilla bean, add the vanilla extract. Strain and
pour into cups.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and improvise a bath for the flan. For small cups, use cake pans and fill so that hot water reaches 2/3 of the way to the top of the cups. The flan must bake in the oven in water to make a proper custard. Check a single mold after an hour. For one cup flans, check after 30 minutes. When a knife is inserted and comes out clean, the flan is done. Take it out of the oven.

Leave the flan the bath for twenty minutes until the water is cool. Wait for several hours before unmolding. To unmold, cut around the edge with a knife and invert on a plate. Or serve in the cup and let the syrup be a surprise.

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